Kalalau – 33 miles of adventure

I was lucky enough (semi) recently to make another adventure to the surreal land that is Kalalau Valley on Kaua’i’s Na Pali Coast. However, this time was a bit different. Hiking in for the first time and testing what the body is capable of. I’ve always been leary of the hike. As I knew, no matter what, the camera gear was going to add a significant amount of weight to a packed bag. That added to the length (11.5 miles from parking lot to campsite) and the infamous “crawlers ledge” had always deterred me. Well, this time there was no turning back. Plans were put in motion to hike in and with the lack of traffic on island currently because of the obvious pandemic reasons, permits were readily available last minute.

The decision was made to only take 2 lenses, my camera body and the tripod in addition to camping supplies, food, (very limited) clothing and couple odds and ends. Trying to keep the pack weight as ‘low’ as possible. However, this meant upon leaving there was easily 50+lbs on my back. Lets GOOOOOO!

Making the way up the trail the body was quick to pick up that this was not an ordinary hike. Not only was I carrying potentially the heaviest pack I had ever tried, (one equal one perhaps in 2004 to ski Tuckerman’s Ravine in NH…when I was much younger), but I was also attempting the longest hike I had ever been on. Getting a bit of a late start meant hiking through the midday sun. But onward we go. I will say, there is a meditative cadence to excessive physical effort with such hikes. The focus on foot placement….the sounds of the trail…and of course, the views, lend themselves to a full sensory experience.

Kalalau Trail headed back towards Ke'e Beach

One of the few perks of leaving so late was that we arrived at the top of “red hill” (the iconic 800′ or so hill that guards the entry (and exit) to The Valley) just as the sun was nearing the horizon. Sunset arrival was glorious. This was also the final decent for the day and our bodies were ready to stop walking. The renewed energy shot through the legs and down we went. To the forest, then river, then finally our perfect campsite and then the waterfall. Whew. 7 hours from trailhead to campsite and 11.8 miles. Ibuprofen was on the menu for dinner that night.

Given that we had ‘only’ 2 full days to BE in Kalalau there was not much time to rest, even though the only thought that first night was…I wonder how this is gonna feel tomorrow??. Oddly enough, while tired, our legs werent too sore and being there is much to explore, after a slow and relaxing morning on the beach in what has to be one of the most unreal places on earth, off we went through the forest to Big Pools. A snaking ancient (or at least feels to be that way) trail up the forest, through Hau bush, lush fluffy forest and finally an epic set of waterfalls and pools roughly 2 miles up the valley. Relaxation was on the menu as well as some photography of course, where I reshot a composition I had taken earlier this year (which I am quite happy with as well). Then it was time to race the sun back to camp. While our timing was a bit off we decided to spend sunset from Mars hill and enjoy the bit of color and cool breeze before making it back to camp. Another 5 miles of hiking in the books.

Kalalau Trail looking towards Kalalau

Day 3 was when the acknowledgement of the legs started to take place. While not overly sore to walk, to the touch it was apparent there was not much rest going on. But again, it was off on another adventure day, albeit after a nice and relaxing start to the day. Up through a less obvious trail that ascends on the other side of the valley. This one in contradiction to the day prior, with a much drier and autumn like feel. Considering the time of year it could almost be a fall hike in another part of the world…but then realizing it was still 82F and the leaves strewn about the ground and brown/red/sienna color palette were seemingly an aborition to another time and place. Onwards we went up to Convict and Ginger Pools. More amazing nooks buried within this amazing Valley. This time however we did not overstay as we knew what awaited us the following day. Arriving back at camp another 4ish miles in the books. Admittedly the daunting task of the next day very much on the mind. Did we go too hard and not rest enough? How was the body going to handle another 11.5 mile day with that weight? Our dinners finished timely and off to bed at the earliest time I could remember laying down at. We were at least going to be rested as much as we could.

Crawlers ledge along the Kalalau Trail

Time to get moving…645am alarm. Eat, pack and a quick toss of the frisbee underneath the iconic cathedral peeks. Reaching down to grab the pack that familiar feeling from 3 days prior shot back. Only this time the legs werent as fresh. While not as heavy as entry due to the lack of food weight, the legs were aware it was going to be a fun day. Off we went, 9am on the dot and one turn over the shoulder to say goodbye mentally one last time to our beachside home for the last 3 nights. The plan on this day was to leave a bit earlier to allow for more photography along the way back as I did not shoot any photographs until Red Hill on the way in. Figuring in that we were tired the calculation was 7.5hrs to hike. Knowing what we were up against the mental gymnastics begins early on as the decent in to Kalalau a few days prior at sunset turns in to an epic grind to start the day. Ok legs…this is your job today. Dont let me down. Surprisingly, while aware of the fatigue the body wants to crush on. And we walk…and walk…and walk. This time with opposite views, both in direction and light. The cool (for Kaua’i standards) morning air in the shadows along the trail a welcome reprieve from the blasting sun baking off the red dirt that was to come later in the day.

First glipse of Ke'e Beach while hiking back from Kalalau Valley along the Na Pali Coast

I’m impressed at our pace and even with stopping for photos to capture the Crawlers Ledge and other views, before we know it we reach the ‘half’ (not really half) way point of Hanakoa Valley. At this point we know the sketchiest terrain is behind us, however the most amount of elevation gain (and loss) lies ahead of us. But down the home stretch. This time a deep meditative focus comes over me as we wind our way through verdant valleys, across streams and finally up to Space Rock, the highest point on the entire Kalalau Trail. From here we know it’s a decently steep decent to Hanakapi’ai Valley and then the grueling climb up. But the mileage counter is down to 3 and we’re on it. As expected the climb out of Hanakapi’ai is brutal. Mid-afternoon sun. Dirt trail with no shade to speak of for long stretches of time. Hot wind wafts around us as our pace slows drastically. But we know the finish line is coming. The thought of jumping in the ocean at Ke’e and pizza await.

And just as it all started, we’re back at the same trailhead again. Cars. People. Civilization. Almost a mini culture shock even being gone only 3 nights. We stick out among the decent size weekend crowd enjoying a picture perfect Ke’e Sunday afternoon. Walking on to the sand with our packs, shoes and socks on, quickly removing everything as fast as we can and then that sweet relief of the late September Pacific Ocean. Magic.

Having experienced The Valley before in different ways, I will say that the hike is most certainly a pilgrimage. A lesson in what our bodies can do and a mental exercise that feels like a deep meditation. Sure there are less physically demanding ways to explore Kalalau but nothing will be quite the same as packing up a bag and experiencing the journey that the Kalalau Trail has to offer for the soul.

aFein

2 very special images…now available in VERY small Limited Editions of 30. Email for details!

The stunning cliffs of Kalalau rise above the Kalalau River as seen with a 65 second exposure
“Where Time Passes By” The stunning cliffs of Kalalau rise above the Kalalau River as seen with a 65 second exposure
Cathedrals at Kalalau Beach as seen from the ocean's edge
“Land, Ahoy!” Cathedrals at Kalalau Beach as seen from the ocean’s edge

Kalalau Love – New Release

Tis that time of year and with it comes a very special image! This photograph, Kalalau Love, was actually taken way back in 2009 and not released until now! On this particular adventure I was with some friends on my first trip down this ridge. While the hike isn’t very long it makes up for that in exposure and sheer beauty. Arriving at the ‘end’ there is one last section that it is possible to cross…not for the faint of heart. Years later this was captured during the filming of aFeinberg – The Documentary. The point in question is in the first section.

On this first time I was even more timid and couldn’t bring myself to do this section with my camera backpack on. So after reaching the other side my friend let me borrow his camera (good friend!). As the clouds danced below us a brief opening in the clouds allowed me to see what was below…Kalalau Beach. Not only was the revelation truly stunning but the opening in the clouds was seemingly in the shape of a heart! Only nature could be so cheeky. Needless to say this started my love affair with this particular vista. 🙂

We are proud to offer this special image in a VERY Limited Edition of only 50 prints. 5 Artist Proofs will also be available.

Clouds break briefly from a ridgeline above Kalalau Beach. True love shines through.

http://www.afeinbergphotography.com/photo/kalalau-love/

Much thanks and Aloha!
aF

Kalalau – A Love Story

It all began on a winter day. Ok, it was a Kauai winter day and we were at a friend’s birthday party dancing. But I was approached by a couple of friends who were getting married in May 2016 and asked if I could join them on this wedding adventure to Kalalau. Unknowing of my schedule I tentatively said yes, because well, Kalalau. I had actually only been to the beach once before about 6 years prior and was in desperate need to get back. Of course I didnt realize how much I would be working at the time but nonetheless, all in good time.

We arrived Friday morning and got things set up. And was pretty much in relax mode. Without having a day off in more time than I could remember I was now completely off the grid for 3 full days. That evening while laying in my tent I decided to check out my photo apps; The Photographer’s Ephemeris and StarWalk. I knew that summer season is better for viewing the Milky Way and had an inkling that it might be rising over the cathedrals. As for the moon and timing, that I needed to figured out. Doing some quick calculations it seemed that my window would be in the middle of the night so I set my alarm for 1am and went to bed. Hearing the phone go off and wanting to stay in bed are all too familiar feelings for most of us. I through on my sarong and grabbed my pack and walked (ok it was a pretty short walk) down to the beach. However this night it was not to be. Clouds. However I was able to see that my hunch was correct. Now to hopefully catch it. 2 more chances.

Next day was wedding day. Most of the day again, spent hanging out and relaxing. Per the expected forecast we had some clouds/rain start up around early afternoon and the mountains were pretty socked in. With the land/sea breeze regime in place I was expecting the weather to break around sunset…and right on queue as we headed out for the ceremony…blam! Here are some of the first edits from the wedding, but yes, the conditions were amazing! (story below photos)

Wedding couple makes there way down the Kalalau trail with dramatic lightWedding party in Kalalau  with dramatic lightBride in Kalalau  with dramatic light

We returned to camp after an amazing event (and photos) and had ourselves a merry little time that evening. This day however instead of going to bed and waking up again I stayed up until my window. As the night progressed and my time came to be our friendly little clouds decided to make an appearance again while I was shooting! Bastards. At least it was an eventful party (clearly I was the last still awake at this point). Off to bed. Strike 2.

Last day. More of the same. Clouds building up during the day, some slight rain. And clearing toward sunset. My window now pushed back until 3am. Alarm set. I poke my head out of the tent and see some stars. A good sign. I walk out enough to see over the cathedrals and there she is. Milky Way arcing right over. The moon getting close to the horizon gave a sunset/moonset feel to everything and I started to work quickly. Of course after 3 days of shooting, including a wedding, I had already finished one battery and was working on one bar on my 2nd and last one. As luck would have it. That is all I would need 🙂

Much thanks and enjoy!
aF

“KalaWow” (unreleased)

Milky Way over the cathedrals at Kalalau
“KalaWow” (unreleased)

A Trip Down The Na Pali- Lost World

It’s pretty amazing.  In the 6+ years I’ve lived on Kauai I’ve seen the Na Pali coast from the water, twice.  Once I was actually kayaking and focused on self preservation, the other time was a couple of months after I moved out to the island.  So…it’s safe to say this was a long time coming.  So when a friend offered to take a jet ski down the coast for sunset, who was I to argue.
Now, it should be mentioned I am a land mammal by nature.  Once in and around water my comfort level drops by quite a bit.  Now put me on a jet ski, flying/bouncing/jostling across the water and it’s fair to say my tension level raises just a bit.  So…there we go…down the coast, leaving from Hanalei Bay around 430pm.  The coast is truly amazing.  And being that I do not leave it very often to get these perspectives, I am constantly amazed by this island I call home.  The ride is pretty choppy.  It’s been pretty windy over the last few days and the wind swell has kicked up to a solid roll.  Onward we go; past Lumahai, Wainiha, around the reef at Tunnels and past Ha’ena and Ke’e Beach.  And now the epic stretch of coast that is the Na Pali lies ahead.  There are a lot of clouds around and off to the west and north the sun is hiding behind layers of cirrus and a rainy cumulus off in the distance.  I lean forward and say to Joel and say it’s a coin flip…50/50 on getting any light.   As we make our way southwest he shows me the sea caves that I’ve heard and seen photos of but never with my own eyes.  Double Door…with the waterfall falling through a hole in the ceiling; Open Ceiling cave…with a giant opening in the roof that fell in.  It is here we stopped for a while and the thoughts started turning.  Yet another project to chase after.  However, we decided that the chance of the good light was too iffy to wait and went back to Kalalau.
Kalalau is a magical place.  Massive fluted cliffs rise out of the beach, the Valley just to the left (looking at the coast from the ocean).   The only way to reach this mythical destination is hiking a very strenuous 11 miles from Ke’e Beach or by boat.  And it’s worth it.  Just ask someone who’s been.  We sat off the coast and watched the clouds and chances of good light.  Snapping a few photos (yes the camera was in my hand while sitting on a jetski and I was holding it tight).  While shooting we generally have the motor off as to not disturb the water around us and keep still.  I mentioned we should reposition a bit further back and to the left.  **click click click**  motor didnt turn over.  NOT a place one wants to get stuck.  Joel turns the starter again and after sputtering it turns over and the engine is on.  Now it’s decided that we keep it idling, and therefore moving, until we get back as not to risk it.  Yikes.  As we circle back around the sun starts to hit the gap in the clouds we saw across the horizon.  The light is on the beach but the clouds and mountains are still dark.  Clicking away as we circle around.    Then the real show…the sun fills the coast and finally bam!  Because we couldnt shut the engine off I was standing on the jetski, holding on to the back of Joel’s life vest with one hand, and photographing with the other.  Snap snap snap.
Ok…time to get back north!  Pack up the bag, on the back and off.  Even faster than we got down the coast.  The constant shaking is briefly abates every so often as we take air over the waves, only to be smacked right back down to the surf.  Getting back to Hanalei finally we witness an awesome light show.  I take a few more photos but in the back of my mind I already got what I needed from the day.  What a ride!
Aloha!
aF
 
 
 

The incredible Na Pali coast as seen from off the coast of Kauai.
“Lost World”

 
100% view of the detail in the shot:
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