Kalalau – 33 miles of adventure

I was lucky enough (semi) recently to make another adventure to the surreal land that is Kalalau Valley on Kaua’i’s Na Pali Coast. However, this time was a bit different. Hiking in for the first time and testing what the body is capable of. I’ve always been leary of the hike. As I knew, no matter what, the camera gear was going to add a significant amount of weight to a packed bag. That added to the length (11.5 miles from parking lot to campsite) and the infamous “crawlers ledge” had always deterred me. Well, this time there was no turning back. Plans were put in motion to hike in and with the lack of traffic on island currently because of the obvious pandemic reasons, permits were readily available last minute.

The decision was made to only take 2 lenses, my camera body and the tripod in addition to camping supplies, food, (very limited) clothing and couple odds and ends. Trying to keep the pack weight as ‘low’ as possible. However, this meant upon leaving there was easily 50+lbs on my back. Lets GOOOOOO!

Making the way up the trail the body was quick to pick up that this was not an ordinary hike. Not only was I carrying potentially the heaviest pack I had ever tried, (one equal one perhaps in 2004 to ski Tuckerman’s Ravine in NH…when I was much younger), but I was also attempting the longest hike I had ever been on. Getting a bit of a late start meant hiking through the midday sun. But onward we go. I will say, there is a meditative cadence to excessive physical effort with such hikes. The focus on foot placement….the sounds of the trail…and of course, the views, lend themselves to a full sensory experience.

Kalalau Trail headed back towards Ke'e Beach

One of the few perks of leaving so late was that we arrived at the top of “red hill” (the iconic 800′ or so hill that guards the entry (and exit) to The Valley) just as the sun was nearing the horizon. Sunset arrival was glorious. This was also the final decent for the day and our bodies were ready to stop walking. The renewed energy shot through the legs and down we went. To the forest, then river, then finally our perfect campsite and then the waterfall. Whew. 7 hours from trailhead to campsite and 11.8 miles. Ibuprofen was on the menu for dinner that night.

Given that we had ‘only’ 2 full days to BE in Kalalau there was not much time to rest, even though the only thought that first night was…I wonder how this is gonna feel tomorrow??. Oddly enough, while tired, our legs werent too sore and being there is much to explore, after a slow and relaxing morning on the beach in what has to be one of the most unreal places on earth, off we went through the forest to Big Pools. A snaking ancient (or at least feels to be that way) trail up the forest, through Hau bush, lush fluffy forest and finally an epic set of waterfalls and pools roughly 2 miles up the valley. Relaxation was on the menu as well as some photography of course, where I reshot a composition I had taken earlier this year (which I am quite happy with as well). Then it was time to race the sun back to camp. While our timing was a bit off we decided to spend sunset from Mars hill and enjoy the bit of color and cool breeze before making it back to camp. Another 5 miles of hiking in the books.

Kalalau Trail looking towards Kalalau

Day 3 was when the acknowledgement of the legs started to take place. While not overly sore to walk, to the touch it was apparent there was not much rest going on. But again, it was off on another adventure day, albeit after a nice and relaxing start to the day. Up through a less obvious trail that ascends on the other side of the valley. This one in contradiction to the day prior, with a much drier and autumn like feel. Considering the time of year it could almost be a fall hike in another part of the world…but then realizing it was still 82F and the leaves strewn about the ground and brown/red/sienna color palette were seemingly an aborition to another time and place. Onwards we went up to Convict and Ginger Pools. More amazing nooks buried within this amazing Valley. This time however we did not overstay as we knew what awaited us the following day. Arriving back at camp another 4ish miles in the books. Admittedly the daunting task of the next day very much on the mind. Did we go too hard and not rest enough? How was the body going to handle another 11.5 mile day with that weight? Our dinners finished timely and off to bed at the earliest time I could remember laying down at. We were at least going to be rested as much as we could.

Crawlers ledge along the Kalalau Trail

Time to get moving…645am alarm. Eat, pack and a quick toss of the frisbee underneath the iconic cathedral peeks. Reaching down to grab the pack that familiar feeling from 3 days prior shot back. Only this time the legs werent as fresh. While not as heavy as entry due to the lack of food weight, the legs were aware it was going to be a fun day. Off we went, 9am on the dot and one turn over the shoulder to say goodbye mentally one last time to our beachside home for the last 3 nights. The plan on this day was to leave a bit earlier to allow for more photography along the way back as I did not shoot any photographs until Red Hill on the way in. Figuring in that we were tired the calculation was 7.5hrs to hike. Knowing what we were up against the mental gymnastics begins early on as the decent in to Kalalau a few days prior at sunset turns in to an epic grind to start the day. Ok legs…this is your job today. Dont let me down. Surprisingly, while aware of the fatigue the body wants to crush on. And we walk…and walk…and walk. This time with opposite views, both in direction and light. The cool (for Kaua’i standards) morning air in the shadows along the trail a welcome reprieve from the blasting sun baking off the red dirt that was to come later in the day.

First glipse of Ke'e Beach while hiking back from Kalalau Valley along the Na Pali Coast

I’m impressed at our pace and even with stopping for photos to capture the Crawlers Ledge and other views, before we know it we reach the ‘half’ (not really half) way point of Hanakoa Valley. At this point we know the sketchiest terrain is behind us, however the most amount of elevation gain (and loss) lies ahead of us. But down the home stretch. This time a deep meditative focus comes over me as we wind our way through verdant valleys, across streams and finally up to Space Rock, the highest point on the entire Kalalau Trail. From here we know it’s a decently steep decent to Hanakapi’ai Valley and then the grueling climb up. But the mileage counter is down to 3 and we’re on it. As expected the climb out of Hanakapi’ai is brutal. Mid-afternoon sun. Dirt trail with no shade to speak of for long stretches of time. Hot wind wafts around us as our pace slows drastically. But we know the finish line is coming. The thought of jumping in the ocean at Ke’e and pizza await.

And just as it all started, we’re back at the same trailhead again. Cars. People. Civilization. Almost a mini culture shock even being gone only 3 nights. We stick out among the decent size weekend crowd enjoying a picture perfect Ke’e Sunday afternoon. Walking on to the sand with our packs, shoes and socks on, quickly removing everything as fast as we can and then that sweet relief of the late September Pacific Ocean. Magic.

Having experienced The Valley before in different ways, I will say that the hike is most certainly a pilgrimage. A lesson in what our bodies can do and a mental exercise that feels like a deep meditation. Sure there are less physically demanding ways to explore Kalalau but nothing will be quite the same as packing up a bag and experiencing the journey that the Kalalau Trail has to offer for the soul.

aFein

2 very special images…now available in VERY small Limited Editions of 30. Email for details!

The stunning cliffs of Kalalau rise above the Kalalau River as seen with a 65 second exposure
“Where Time Passes By” The stunning cliffs of Kalalau rise above the Kalalau River as seen with a 65 second exposure
Cathedrals at Kalalau Beach as seen from the ocean's edge
“Land, Ahoy!” Cathedrals at Kalalau Beach as seen from the ocean’s edge

Waimea Dayz

On a free evening I decided to head out to the west side to chase, what I thought, was a potential photo idea at Pakala’s. A long empty stretch of beach outside Waimea. After arriving and shooting some later afternoon light I referenced my app and realized that what I thought was possible was not going to happen. Quick thinking and decided to head down to the Waimea Pier where I had scouted an image a year or two before. While the main show for me was going to be the Milky Way (an image also captured later that evening), the twilight glow on the pier was stunning. I used a wide angle lens and composed the frame to accentuate the lines heading out in to the Pacific. A perfectly serene scene to capture the feeling of the calm that is the west side.

Now available from aFeinberg Gallery!

Limited Edition of 100. Artist Proof of 10.
Contact us for personal assistance today!

Waimea Dayz

Kilauea Light

Aloha all!

Wanted to share a fun image from a couple weeks ago here on Kaua’i. After photographing the Kilauea Lighthouse last year I have put it in my calendar to remind me each year to visit for this very unique opportunity. For about 30-45 minutes a year they light the main light. Doing so allows for some really unique imagery! You can see last year’s attempt here: This year I wanted a different perspective and went with the classic overlook along the road. What we couldnt have predicted was the blazing sunset to accompany our time hanging with the bird and taking photographs. All in all…another great year for the Kilauea Lighthouse 🙂

Enjoy!

aF

Orange You Glad

“Orange You Glad” (unreleased) © 2018

Been trying to shoot more lately and had a free afternoon a couple days ago so ran out of the house a bit before sunset. Generally these days I carry 2 bags, one camera and one drone. Never know what I want to do so best to have options. I had been eyeing the field near my house (again) and set off on the short drive.

Flying around the light was pretty great. As it was fairly cloudy, the sun would pop in and out creating some awesome dappled scenes. As I captured my field shot (to be shared at a different time) I decided to fly around and see what else was there when the pattern of the orchard caught my attention.

I tried a few different compositions, all playing with the patterns, but this particular exposure caught me. This frame was in between the sun coming from shadow to sun so the across the scene was soft and unique.

The original shot is vertical but also added a square crop as well. Which one do you prefer??

All in all a fun afternoon and more to share later. Thanks!

aF

P.S. Bonus points if you know what kinds of tress they are 😉

Aerial view of an orange grove on the north shore of kauai.
“Orange You Glad”

While You Were Sleeping

Funny how ideas happen. These days it’s been more about figuring out how the stars align, sometimes literally. Planned out an evening where I thought the celestial objects would be what I was hoping for. This required sleeping in my car for a couple of hours and then shooting, in what I thought would be the dark. For anyone that has been to Shipwrecks knows there is a large hotel just next to the beach. While my original idea didnt work out (will be going back to try again), I figured I would stick around and hope that the clouds would cooperate. After over an hour of playing cat and mouse I was able to get some shots off that showed the Milky Way blazing overhead. The light from the hotel actually helped illuminate the landscape. Truly amazing what happens while most of us are sleeping 🙂

Enjoy!
aF

Milky way blazes over Shipwrecks Beach in Poipu, Kaua'i
“While You Were Sleeping” (unreleaesd)

A Morning With Koholā

After a long enough time of living in Hawaii I finally had the opportunity to go out and do some whale watching earlier this past week. Our tour booked for 8am out of Kihei on Maui. As some might know I’m not the best on boats so while I was excited at trying to capture some new subject matter the uneasyness of possibly being uncomfortable was there. Luckily for us the trades were more easterly than usual and Kihei waters were in the lee of Haleakala. This meaning that the ocean wasnt nearly as choppy as it could have been. We ventured out and started heading north all on the lookout for our sea friends. Eventaully we came back south as a few had been spotted and then…boom. Next thing we know we are being ‘mugged’. 4-6 whales are circling our boat. Diving underneath us…for an hour! Because these animals are highly protected the term ‘mugged’ means that we were unable to move until they were a safe distance. Normally I would have expected to be shooting at longer distances but this meant we had extended time RIGHT next to these huge animals. Luckily I brought my wide angle and was able to shoot at 24mm as they passed over and over again. Including some fun abstracts as the clear water let us see them below us. Truly an incredible experience.

This particular image was taken as this whale passed JUST off the bow. I hurried to the front of the boat and as it passed did this awesome barrel roll. Haleakala being very clear in the background. Such a fun moment!

Enjoy and more to come!

“Belly Scratch” (unreleased)

A humpback whale shows its belly off the Kihei coast of Maui. Haleakala can be seen in the background
“Belly Scratch” (unreleased)

Kalalau – A Love Story

It all began on a winter day. Ok, it was a Kauai winter day and we were at a friend’s birthday party dancing. But I was approached by a couple of friends who were getting married in May 2016 and asked if I could join them on this wedding adventure to Kalalau. Unknowing of my schedule I tentatively said yes, because well, Kalalau. I had actually only been to the beach once before about 6 years prior and was in desperate need to get back. Of course I didnt realize how much I would be working at the time but nonetheless, all in good time.

We arrived Friday morning and got things set up. And was pretty much in relax mode. Without having a day off in more time than I could remember I was now completely off the grid for 3 full days. That evening while laying in my tent I decided to check out my photo apps; The Photographer’s Ephemeris and StarWalk. I knew that summer season is better for viewing the Milky Way and had an inkling that it might be rising over the cathedrals. As for the moon and timing, that I needed to figured out. Doing some quick calculations it seemed that my window would be in the middle of the night so I set my alarm for 1am and went to bed. Hearing the phone go off and wanting to stay in bed are all too familiar feelings for most of us. I through on my sarong and grabbed my pack and walked (ok it was a pretty short walk) down to the beach. However this night it was not to be. Clouds. However I was able to see that my hunch was correct. Now to hopefully catch it. 2 more chances.

Next day was wedding day. Most of the day again, spent hanging out and relaxing. Per the expected forecast we had some clouds/rain start up around early afternoon and the mountains were pretty socked in. With the land/sea breeze regime in place I was expecting the weather to break around sunset…and right on queue as we headed out for the ceremony…blam! Here are some of the first edits from the wedding, but yes, the conditions were amazing! (story below photos)

Wedding couple makes there way down the Kalalau trail with dramatic lightWedding party in Kalalau  with dramatic lightBride in Kalalau  with dramatic light

We returned to camp after an amazing event (and photos) and had ourselves a merry little time that evening. This day however instead of going to bed and waking up again I stayed up until my window. As the night progressed and my time came to be our friendly little clouds decided to make an appearance again while I was shooting! Bastards. At least it was an eventful party (clearly I was the last still awake at this point). Off to bed. Strike 2.

Last day. More of the same. Clouds building up during the day, some slight rain. And clearing toward sunset. My window now pushed back until 3am. Alarm set. I poke my head out of the tent and see some stars. A good sign. I walk out enough to see over the cathedrals and there she is. Milky Way arcing right over. The moon getting close to the horizon gave a sunset/moonset feel to everything and I started to work quickly. Of course after 3 days of shooting, including a wedding, I had already finished one battery and was working on one bar on my 2nd and last one. As luck would have it. That is all I would need 🙂

Much thanks and enjoy!
aF

“KalaWow” (unreleased)

Milky Way over the cathedrals at Kalalau
“KalaWow” (unreleased)

Haleakela at Twilight

 
This particular day I was headed up from the south shore to the west side to go shoot sunset.  At least that was the plan anyway.  While heading out of North Kihei I looked in the rear view mirror to see Haleakela clear of clouds.  Woah.  All of a sudden I had a tough choice of trying to figure out where to shoot.  I pulled over and debated a bit then hustled back to an area I had thought had a lot of potential.  Careful exploring around it was difficult to settle on a composition I liked best.  Always happens when I shoot a composition-rich area for the first time.  Bouncing between two spots I spent well over an hour barefoot in the ankle deep water watching and shooting the change in light between sunset to nightfall.  This particular image of the earth shadow rising behind the volcano caught me upon review.  I’m always a sucker for those deep blues and magentas!
 
Much thanks and enjoy!
aF
 

Haleakela on Maui as seen from Kealia Pond at twilight.
Untitled Haleakela