Kalalau – 33 miles of adventure

I was lucky enough (semi) recently to make another adventure to the surreal land that is Kalalau Valley on Kaua’i’s Na Pali Coast. However, this time was a bit different. Hiking in for the first time and testing what the body is capable of. I’ve always been leary of the hike. As I knew, no matter what, the camera gear was going to add a significant amount of weight to a packed bag. That added to the length (11.5 miles from parking lot to campsite) and the infamous “crawlers ledge” had always deterred me. Well, this time there was no turning back. Plans were put in motion to hike in and with the lack of traffic on island currently because of the obvious pandemic reasons, permits were readily available last minute.

The decision was made to only take 2 lenses, my camera body and the tripod in addition to camping supplies, food, (very limited) clothing and couple odds and ends. Trying to keep the pack weight as ‘low’ as possible. However, this meant upon leaving there was easily 50+lbs on my back. Lets GOOOOOO!

Making the way up the trail the body was quick to pick up that this was not an ordinary hike. Not only was I carrying potentially the heaviest pack I had ever tried, (one equal one perhaps in 2004 to ski Tuckerman’s Ravine in NH…when I was much younger), but I was also attempting the longest hike I had ever been on. Getting a bit of a late start meant hiking through the midday sun. But onward we go. I will say, there is a meditative cadence to excessive physical effort with such hikes. The focus on foot placement….the sounds of the trail…and of course, the views, lend themselves to a full sensory experience.

Kalalau Trail headed back towards Ke'e Beach

One of the few perks of leaving so late was that we arrived at the top of “red hill” (the iconic 800′ or so hill that guards the entry (and exit) to The Valley) just as the sun was nearing the horizon. Sunset arrival was glorious. This was also the final decent for the day and our bodies were ready to stop walking. The renewed energy shot through the legs and down we went. To the forest, then river, then finally our perfect campsite and then the waterfall. Whew. 7 hours from trailhead to campsite and 11.8 miles. Ibuprofen was on the menu for dinner that night.

Given that we had ‘only’ 2 full days to BE in Kalalau there was not much time to rest, even though the only thought that first night was…I wonder how this is gonna feel tomorrow??. Oddly enough, while tired, our legs werent too sore and being there is much to explore, after a slow and relaxing morning on the beach in what has to be one of the most unreal places on earth, off we went through the forest to Big Pools. A snaking ancient (or at least feels to be that way) trail up the forest, through Hau bush, lush fluffy forest and finally an epic set of waterfalls and pools roughly 2 miles up the valley. Relaxation was on the menu as well as some photography of course, where I reshot a composition I had taken earlier this year (which I am quite happy with as well). Then it was time to race the sun back to camp. While our timing was a bit off we decided to spend sunset from Mars hill and enjoy the bit of color and cool breeze before making it back to camp. Another 5 miles of hiking in the books.

Kalalau Trail looking towards Kalalau

Day 3 was when the acknowledgement of the legs started to take place. While not overly sore to walk, to the touch it was apparent there was not much rest going on. But again, it was off on another adventure day, albeit after a nice and relaxing start to the day. Up through a less obvious trail that ascends on the other side of the valley. This one in contradiction to the day prior, with a much drier and autumn like feel. Considering the time of year it could almost be a fall hike in another part of the world…but then realizing it was still 82F and the leaves strewn about the ground and brown/red/sienna color palette were seemingly an aborition to another time and place. Onwards we went up to Convict and Ginger Pools. More amazing nooks buried within this amazing Valley. This time however we did not overstay as we knew what awaited us the following day. Arriving back at camp another 4ish miles in the books. Admittedly the daunting task of the next day very much on the mind. Did we go too hard and not rest enough? How was the body going to handle another 11.5 mile day with that weight? Our dinners finished timely and off to bed at the earliest time I could remember laying down at. We were at least going to be rested as much as we could.

Crawlers ledge along the Kalalau Trail

Time to get moving…645am alarm. Eat, pack and a quick toss of the frisbee underneath the iconic cathedral peeks. Reaching down to grab the pack that familiar feeling from 3 days prior shot back. Only this time the legs werent as fresh. While not as heavy as entry due to the lack of food weight, the legs were aware it was going to be a fun day. Off we went, 9am on the dot and one turn over the shoulder to say goodbye mentally one last time to our beachside home for the last 3 nights. The plan on this day was to leave a bit earlier to allow for more photography along the way back as I did not shoot any photographs until Red Hill on the way in. Figuring in that we were tired the calculation was 7.5hrs to hike. Knowing what we were up against the mental gymnastics begins early on as the decent in to Kalalau a few days prior at sunset turns in to an epic grind to start the day. Ok legs…this is your job today. Dont let me down. Surprisingly, while aware of the fatigue the body wants to crush on. And we walk…and walk…and walk. This time with opposite views, both in direction and light. The cool (for Kaua’i standards) morning air in the shadows along the trail a welcome reprieve from the blasting sun baking off the red dirt that was to come later in the day.

First glipse of Ke'e Beach while hiking back from Kalalau Valley along the Na Pali Coast

I’m impressed at our pace and even with stopping for photos to capture the Crawlers Ledge and other views, before we know it we reach the ‘half’ (not really half) way point of Hanakoa Valley. At this point we know the sketchiest terrain is behind us, however the most amount of elevation gain (and loss) lies ahead of us. But down the home stretch. This time a deep meditative focus comes over me as we wind our way through verdant valleys, across streams and finally up to Space Rock, the highest point on the entire Kalalau Trail. From here we know it’s a decently steep decent to Hanakapi’ai Valley and then the grueling climb up. But the mileage counter is down to 3 and we’re on it. As expected the climb out of Hanakapi’ai is brutal. Mid-afternoon sun. Dirt trail with no shade to speak of for long stretches of time. Hot wind wafts around us as our pace slows drastically. But we know the finish line is coming. The thought of jumping in the ocean at Ke’e and pizza await.

And just as it all started, we’re back at the same trailhead again. Cars. People. Civilization. Almost a mini culture shock even being gone only 3 nights. We stick out among the decent size weekend crowd enjoying a picture perfect Ke’e Sunday afternoon. Walking on to the sand with our packs, shoes and socks on, quickly removing everything as fast as we can and then that sweet relief of the late September Pacific Ocean. Magic.

Having experienced The Valley before in different ways, I will say that the hike is most certainly a pilgrimage. A lesson in what our bodies can do and a mental exercise that feels like a deep meditation. Sure there are less physically demanding ways to explore Kalalau but nothing will be quite the same as packing up a bag and experiencing the journey that the Kalalau Trail has to offer for the soul.

aFein

2 very special images…now available in VERY small Limited Editions of 30. Email for details!

The stunning cliffs of Kalalau rise above the Kalalau River as seen with a 65 second exposure
“Where Time Passes By” The stunning cliffs of Kalalau rise above the Kalalau River as seen with a 65 second exposure
Cathedrals at Kalalau Beach as seen from the ocean's edge
“Land, Ahoy!” Cathedrals at Kalalau Beach as seen from the ocean’s edge

Valley Of Fire

“Valley Of Fire” (unreleased) © 2017

Had the pleasure of visiting this incredible location early Sept of 2017 after this year’s Burning Man. Needless to say going to the desert after a hot event might have been a mistake as it was over 100F when this was taken. As we were hiking back to the car there were some storms off in the distance. With the obviously amazing rock in the foreground I was able to capture only one frame with lightning. Between the hot weather and lighting…definitely valley of fire.

Enjoy!

aF

Distant lightning over colorful striated rock in Valley Of Fire, Nevada.
Valley Of Fire (unreleased)

Trees, Fog and Sunrise

As photographers we tend to intake lots of imagery. Being self-taught that is pretty much how I learned over the years. Along this path we come across photographs that tend to stick with us, or at least the idea of a certain scene or conditions. The ‘tree on a hill’ idea is nothing new. But of course I’ve wanted my own version. Well, while on a trip with my partner in March ’17 to the Central Coast of California we had the amazing opportunity to photograph this sunrise. Incredibly this was the property next door from where she grew up. What I couldnt expect was the incredible conditions we were about to experience. As the sky brightened this low ground fog hung around the small rolling hills. Then, all hell broke lose and the sky went nuclear. There are a number of photographs from this morning that are in my back pocket to share along the way but I will say this is a morning that will stay with me forever. Photographs or not 🙂

Enjoy!

aF

Incredible vibrant sunrise over 2 lone oak trees in fog.
“Woke Oak”

Transitions – The battle between day and night

Recently I had the pleasure of photographing along the Central Coast of CA. While in CA a lot I hadnt been to this part of the state yet. Just so happened the trip coincided with the full moon so naturally my mind starts to line up ideas that could be possible. While we had been at the dunes earlier in the week the decision was to come back for sunset on our last night. Full moon rise right around sunset. While sunset was great (see previous post) the light was about to get crazy. There is a very small window of time, where the fading twilight starts to balance the brightness of the moon. It is in this brief window that I am now completely enraptured by. Nothing compares to the uniqueness of the colors that become possible. In the end I believe I was able to just take 3 photos before the light wasnt quite the same. This image I have two versions of, one cropped to make an interesting panorama. I am including both for your viewing. Which do you prefer??

Enjoy!
aF

1

Ripples on the sand illuminated by twilight and moonlight.
“Transitions” (unreleased) © 2017

2

Ripples of sand illuminated by twilight and moonlight along California's Central Coast.
“Transitions II” (unreleased) © 2017

Dunes in…CA?!

Just got back from a 10 day trip to CA…of which I was able to shoot for 7 of them. Havent been able to shoot that much in, perhaps years. Not only was a pushing buttons but also exploring places I hadn’t been yet in California, then Central Coast. Even with all my trips I had not made it down to that part of the world. Needless to say I will be returning. Incredible seascapes, rolling hills, incredible Oak trees…dunes (my favorite). After looking out of the window on one of my many plane trips I noticed an area below that I had to explore. Didnt know it would take years to get there but we ended up spending 2 separate shoots there over 4 days. This particular shot was taken on the return trip for sunset. Which started out VERY windy (and chilly, even though the temperature was 15F higher just a bit inland). As the sunset the wind subsided and the light turned magic. In normal aF fashion I was scurrying around as the light dwindled trying to find whatever compositions I could. I was initially above this dune and then noticed the shape of the shadow and curves leading toward the point in the background. After tweaking the composition 3 times the 4th resulted in this image.

There will be lots to share from this adventure and please enjoy this surreal place!

aF

Sunset along Oceano Dunes in Central California
Untitled Dune © 2017 (unreleased)

Beyond Here…

Even with getting to California every 6-8 weeks to sign and ship artwork, often times I do not get out and photograph. Of course this isnt always true (see Yosemite images in the New Releases), but often it’s a quick work trip and back to the islands. On this particular afternoon I had some extra free time and decided to pull out my maps app and look for a spot I had flagged to go check out…so off I went. Driving there I had forgotten what had made me mark the spot but upon arriving I had an idea. A small beach tucked away with an arch and awesome rock stack in the tiny bay. Wicked cool spot. Approaching the cave first I set up for some rushing water shots at sunset. Watching the waves break further out and then crawl in definitely gets the heart racing even when they are benign. Without any clouds that day the light was still pretty and decided, as I usually do with clear skies (in Northern California even), to check my StarWalk app to see where things would be after sunset. Well…seems that my timing couldn’t have been much better. A bit after sunset the Milky Way looked to line up with the cave AND the moon wasnt too big to wash out the night sky. Bingo. So the wait began. With the tripod set up in the spot I had settled on (the back and forth conversation in my head was pretty comical) I bounced between the camera and my seat in the sand…wondering if a sneaky wave would knock the camera over. To capture the image with the best detail possible the plan was to take an image at twilight and then combine it with the sky, this way I would be able to print larger later and with more detail.

As expected, as day turned to twilight to night, the Milky Way revealed itself right at the entrance to the cave. As I took my exposures I wondered what this crescent moon looked like and as I emerged I saw another incredible scene…but that’s an image for another day 🙂

Much thanks and enjoy/share!
aF

Milky way as seen through a sea cave along the California coast north of Santa Cruz
“Beyond Here Lies Eternity” (unreleased)

Lightning at twilight on Maui!

Last Wednesday I had just gotten back to Maui and headed up to Paia to play some ultimate. The weather in the eastern Islands had been stormy for a couple of days with damaging flooding occurring on Maui the day prior. While the sky was nice enough there were storm clouds further down the coast but weren’t tracking any further to the west. As the sun set we noticed a couple of the clouds starting popping off some awesome lightning. Standing there watching this awesome spectacle I decided to run back to the car and grab my gear and hurry to the beach to try and catch some. These kinds of conditions are VERY rare in Hawaii and standing out there with the ocean running up watching this show was special. To add to the surreal part of the scene the full moon had just rising and was lighting everything up as well! Not a bad way to start this trip!

Which version do YOU prefer?!

Aloha!
aF

Lightning off the coast of Paia, Maui
“Bolted”
Lightning illuminates a cloud over the ocean just off shore of Paia, Maui
“Inner Glow”

Kalalau – A Love Story

It all began on a winter day. Ok, it was a Kauai winter day and we were at a friend’s birthday party dancing. But I was approached by a couple of friends who were getting married in May 2016 and asked if I could join them on this wedding adventure to Kalalau. Unknowing of my schedule I tentatively said yes, because well, Kalalau. I had actually only been to the beach once before about 6 years prior and was in desperate need to get back. Of course I didnt realize how much I would be working at the time but nonetheless, all in good time.

We arrived Friday morning and got things set up. And was pretty much in relax mode. Without having a day off in more time than I could remember I was now completely off the grid for 3 full days. That evening while laying in my tent I decided to check out my photo apps; The Photographer’s Ephemeris and StarWalk. I knew that summer season is better for viewing the Milky Way and had an inkling that it might be rising over the cathedrals. As for the moon and timing, that I needed to figured out. Doing some quick calculations it seemed that my window would be in the middle of the night so I set my alarm for 1am and went to bed. Hearing the phone go off and wanting to stay in bed are all too familiar feelings for most of us. I through on my sarong and grabbed my pack and walked (ok it was a pretty short walk) down to the beach. However this night it was not to be. Clouds. However I was able to see that my hunch was correct. Now to hopefully catch it. 2 more chances.

Next day was wedding day. Most of the day again, spent hanging out and relaxing. Per the expected forecast we had some clouds/rain start up around early afternoon and the mountains were pretty socked in. With the land/sea breeze regime in place I was expecting the weather to break around sunset…and right on queue as we headed out for the ceremony…blam! Here are some of the first edits from the wedding, but yes, the conditions were amazing! (story below photos)

Wedding couple makes there way down the Kalalau trail with dramatic lightWedding party in Kalalau  with dramatic lightBride in Kalalau  with dramatic light

We returned to camp after an amazing event (and photos) and had ourselves a merry little time that evening. This day however instead of going to bed and waking up again I stayed up until my window. As the night progressed and my time came to be our friendly little clouds decided to make an appearance again while I was shooting! Bastards. At least it was an eventful party (clearly I was the last still awake at this point). Off to bed. Strike 2.

Last day. More of the same. Clouds building up during the day, some slight rain. And clearing toward sunset. My window now pushed back until 3am. Alarm set. I poke my head out of the tent and see some stars. A good sign. I walk out enough to see over the cathedrals and there she is. Milky Way arcing right over. The moon getting close to the horizon gave a sunset/moonset feel to everything and I started to work quickly. Of course after 3 days of shooting, including a wedding, I had already finished one battery and was working on one bar on my 2nd and last one. As luck would have it. That is all I would need 🙂

Much thanks and enjoy!
aF

“KalaWow” (unreleased)

Milky Way over the cathedrals at Kalalau
“KalaWow” (unreleased)

Yosemite Fog

It surprises me, living so far away from Yosemite, that I’ve been able to now catch snow in the Valley twice. This particular coincidence lined up with my usual mainland trip to sign and ship artwork. Being that the forecast was for a few inches of snow, but not down to the valley floor, I wasn’t sure my plans. When I got word that the webcams were showing the white stuff all the way down I knew where I was headed. At the same time I found out a long term photographer contact I had was also in the area. I made the drive and arrived around 11pm. Of course with an early wake up call coming. As we ventured out in the morning the darkness was starting to give way and we could see that the clouds had parted. A good sign…potentially. Landscape photography is a tricky thing. Too much or too few clouds can be problematic (sometimes). My goal for this morning was Tunnel View. The iconic location that I really was looking forward to capturing with fresh snowfall AND flowing waterfalls (finally a non-drought winter). Arriving to the view in front of me was incredible. White and green speckled throughout the valley. A low hanging cloud among the trees. And of course…chilly!!

As the sun started to rise the cloud that was hanging in the Valley proceeded to flatten out and dance across the trees. Constantly changing and sloshing about it was a smorgasbord of intimate photography. I spent the next 2.5hrs in awe as the constantly changing light and fog really got my creative juices flowing. So much to capture and so ephemeral. To say that the morning was productive would be an understatement! There is lots to share but we shall start with just this one.

Much thanks and enjoy!
aF

Fog hugs the tree tops in Yosemite Valley as seen from Tunnel View
Yosemite Fog Untitled (unreleased)

Not So Devilish

“Not So Devilish”

Having spent a lot of time in California over the last 4 years it was such a welcome (I’m sure for lots of people!) change to see things so green this year. This is an afternoon shot taken on Mt. Diablo, east of San Francisco. The greens, shadows and clouds were just too much fun to pass by!

Thanks!
aF

"Not So Devilish" Having spent a lot of time in California over the last 4 years it was such a welcome (I'm sure for lots of people!) change to see things so green this year. This is an afternoon shot taken on Mt. Diablo, east of San Francisco. The greens, shadows and clouds were just too much fun to pass by! Thanks! aF
“Not So Devilish” (unreleased)